";s:4:"text";s:21311:"Find the worn pin. Now assembly them on the 3PT lift control arm swing. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with this web site, nor is this site sponsored or endorsed by them in any way. of the hydraulic touch control lever and lift arms to be sure they were not moved while making the adjustments. Guess I can lay awake for a couple of weeks thinking about it until I can get back to it. Its generally not an immediate pressing problem. Zane Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Thanks. That is all you need, any more will just leak past the axle seals and get on your brakes. Have a fairly heavy weight or load on the lift arms. The only way arms go up is to hold draft control lever down. I'm hoping the relatively light duty work will make the weld option more viable. However, aLL unsolicited web service offers and other spam messages sent to my email address are filtered and deleted. If temperatures have been below freezing, the water will freeze. (2) Put the position control lever in the forward or draft position. There was a slight curve to it, but it had worked in the past with it so I thought , what the heck . I have the same problem. The issue that I am having is with the lifting of an implement on the 3pt. The PTO shaft should spin when you release the clutch. Once I get the lift arm ram welded I will proceed with the jig. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see If I could not add metal to build up the worn part of the cam I would install a longer pin and live with it . I did take a look at it before I put it back together. It makes a big difference. If you only have time to do one, do that one. May be where I end up depending on what Zane says. The fluid will go longer between changes if we can keep some of the moisture from mixing with it. I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. } This one is a separate page Live Hydraulics. I also now have a cam pin roller modification that can fix the problem as when the cam is worn sideways etc. Thanks for the suggestion. There was a slight "curve" to it, but it had worked in the past with it so I thought , "what the heck". It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. Drain the sump. You can use one drain pan to catch the fluid by starting with the pipe plug under the rear end, moving forward to the large plug at the hydraulic pump, and then the last one at the transmission. Thanks. Internal Adjustments. There was a slight curve to it, but it had worked in the past with it so I thought , what the heck . The louder the knock, the more wear your pump has on it. Draining water as it collects in the sumps can help to extend the fluid change interval, but fluid does not last forever. They simply wear out and need to be replaced. Then remove all three plugs, and let it drip into pans overnight. Remove the right inspection plate that has the hydraulic dip-stick. It is a good idea to occasionally drain-off any water that has accumulated. When the air cools moisture condenses on all those cool metal surfaces inside the sump. If no major leakage is noted, then check the pump pressure as outlined in the FO-4 manual. This is an excellent time to rebuild the lift cylinder also. 8N - Hydraulic Lift - Troubleshooting, by Zane Sherman . If after installed I need further adjustment I'll use the split washer trick. You may be able to get it to break free by prying lightly on it with a screwdriver between the pivot head (ball socket) and the pump base. Welding is my call? Thanks for te help. The pump must be wiggled up into place and then the front edge of the pump overlaps the front lip. Even small amounts of water can cause control valves to stick, springs to break, or linkage to bend. "@type": "Organization", "datePublished": "2001-10-31", We keep the brush down in the woods. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see OK,OK step one first. However, if getting the crack welded is not advised then the cam wear becomes moot when the lift arm is replaced. Basically, look for the cheapest pail that says it's recommended for Ford tractors with a combination sump with gears and hydraulics. This is also usually sold as 80 or 90 weight. Dec 17, 2013. rmissildine said: Hello all. Tightening the nut increases the force required to move the lever. Don't put your body under or in line with any force you are employing. Free shipping . Figured that out after I sent the last message. If the knock is faint you can probably put off repairs for quite a while. This is easy to check just remove the side door and watch the oil move. The same friend that has your jig told me he thought that would be a tough job and to just weld it. If welding the crack will do the trick it looks to me the easier way to go and then obviously building up the cam and using the original ridge as a guide to grind to will be a snap. Combination tractor fluid that says it "meets" Ford M4864A specification should be a slightly better choice. The shifter is a ball and socket that seals well. This could be severe leakage at the cylinder, a bad relief valve, or a badly worn pump. Includes left and right anchors.OEM #: 957E596, 957E597.Applic.. $14.36 $15.69 Spring, Hydraulic Control - 9N547B 3 - Is it below freezing now? It runs out quicker and more "stuff" is suspended in it. Right there in the slot as a STOP to prevent going higher. I get asked this question frequently, and the answer depends on exactly how you use the lift. That usually works ok if you cant spare the two bucks for a new one). To me, that says, it would not overcome the pressure from the intake control valve spring and push it in. Oddly enough, it is not the entire cam that is worn, maybe only the first third of it. "height": 57 Simple. I don't have a welder. It is critical. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see OK,OK step one first. Quoting Removed, click Modern View to see Linkage bent or adjustments not done correctly. }, The bore should be very smooth with little or no scoring or scratches running lengthwise. Get a replacement or straighten the one you have. Thanks, I guess my lift issues may have been a blessing as they led to finding the crack. It will only raise the plow with touch all the way up. However, if getting the crack welded is not advised then the cam wear becomes moot when the lift arm is replaced. When I was plowing in the spring, when the arms were actually as low as it would go and the tractor would start to loose traction, a slight lift of the position lever would bring the plow up, but then I would have to push down on the draft control lever to get the plow to go higher. Working the tractor gets the fluid very warm. Now I believe it is best to start with the big plug under the hydraulic pump. My lift only comes up half way then stops.. My lift went up but now it wont go down.. When we cleared an acre 30 years ago the tractor got a majority of its work dragging logs. I do see it is bent as well. The oil sump holds 5 gallons that is shared with the transmission and rear end of the tractor. The two-sided linkage on the 9N/2N is a much bigger pain in the rump to get hooked up than the single-ended linkage for the 8N. With about 800 pounds on the lift arms, the front tires start to come off the ground. }, "@type": "Organization", Hopefully my wear level is repairable with his cam pin roller modification. Attach a heavy implement (anything weighing at least 150 pounds should be enough). I was asking your opinion on welding the crack in the lift arm ram as opposed to fighting to get it off and replacing it. Weigh those facts, and it probably works out that even a lightly-used tractor should have the fluid changed at least once a year. Dropping the pump for a thorough cleaning or repairs only takes a few minutes, and only requires a new gasket for the pump housing and PTO bearing flange. I also removed the lift cover and checked and adjusted the constant draft and position cont Welcome! I have copied the steps from my August 18, 1948 operators manual below. "text": "I have cleaned, rebuilt and reinstalled my hydraulic pump. FIRST push the clutch in and make SURE the PTO is engaged. Any water in there will almost immediately start running. It is hard, but not impossible, to do both with only one pair of hands. Loosen the 4 bolts holding the quadrant control lever bracket to the top cover. Regardless of the position of my quadrant support plate, I cannot get the valve completely open as directed in step 7a. (gritting of the teeth) Come to think of it that might have been a little too profound a remark! After yesterday I don't have a clue how I could get the ram arm out. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig Now Zane, that sounds like a challenge that I'm up to. I'll let you know how I do. The pump piston pushes the oil out then pulls it back in as it returns. If the cylinder is leaking, you will see it. The fluid we find in most of these tractors is often sadly neglected. Have a friend with a MIG welder but Zane advised 7018 stick welding, which I'm sure I could get done in town. The control lever and quadrant moves the valve spools on the pump to control the lift. Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. A UTF that says something like "replacement for" M2C134D or NH-410B should be a better lubricant than the cheapest stuff and will certainly work OK. Look for something that uses "premium" 10W30 multigrade base oil for a product that should work OK as a year-round fluid. 2009-10-02 166108. . A weak lift may not work at all with synthetic fluid. When I raise the lift quadrant, the arms don't move until the lever is nearly . Hold the hydraulic touch control lever at the top of the quadrant and gently tap the quadrant support plate forward or backward until both of the above requirements are fulfilled. Always consult equipment operator's manual and follow safety instructions before operating or servicing any tractor or equipment, or attempting any task. Be sure to have a good welder do it. Happy New Year! Wrong? TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. I couldn't even get the lift arm off of the end of the splined shaft. ", Drain off some fluid to expose the top of the pump. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. If the oil looks milky, its got water in it. It usually takes 4-1/2 to 4-3/4 gallons not 5 as stated in the owner's manual. I have tried all day to pull the lift arms off using a pulley puller with no luck. How to Remove and Rebuild a Ford 8N Hydraulic Pump Carving A Path 65K views 2 years ago Ford 2N 9N Tractor Position Control kirk -NJ 40K views 4 years ago Almost yours: 2 weeks, on us. My guess is that someone used a pin that was too short & too hard. It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. It just ain't possible to adjust the lift linkage on the 8N Ford unless you have a jig to use so that the end of the control rod ends up in the right position. "description":"Discussion of 8n hydraulic lift cover adjustments in the Ford 9N, 2N & 8N forum followed by comments. So, you guilted me into starting with step one. ", As for the adjustment, I followed the instructions in the very old version of the I&T Shop manual I have. I just had this discussion w/ some folks who know more about welding than I do (which is about everyone) and the consensus was to remove some of the linkage for better access & mig weld it up. Other than that I just dress the gravel drive a few times. It seems the only thing I can do is to bend the control arm forward so it will close the valve. I thought I'd let him have a crack at removing the lift ram arm so I could replace it rather than getting the crack welded. I replaced the pin, but still need to order Zane's jig to properly adjust. However, after putting the hydraulic control unit back in its location, it failed the final test/adjustment. "dateModified": "2015-06-09", Be sure to have a good welder do it. "@id": "https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/" Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? Thus, I removed the hydraulic control unit to adjust it. A premium full-synthetic that says it "MEETS" NH-410B (M2C-134D) is going to be the most expensive option, but it is also going to be the best all-season fluid and lubricant. { It is bent forward which I thought would help if anything, wrong? Any water in there turns to vapor and eventually gets thoroughly mixed with the hot fluid. You obviously know a lot more about welding than I do. "author": { When I was plowing in the spring, when the arms were actually as low as it would go and the tractor would start to loose traction, a slight lift of the position lever would bring the plow up, but then I would have to push down on the draft control lever to get the plow to go higher. All Tradenames and Trademarks referred to on these web pages are the property of their respective trademark holders. If no oil is spraying out anywhere, you could have a bad pump. Such folks bend it with a length of pipe in the inspection port(s). A short tutorial of hydraulic repair on a Ford 8N is available here. Measuring parts just won't cut it when all the parts are not still the same shape and measurement that they were when new about 50 years ago. Luckily the tractor gets little work. At the time I had an extra top cover and just installed that on his machine and all was well. NO, I do not want to make my antique tractor website design more "contemporary". Make sure the rod is connected and that it is moving the control valve spools in and out as you move the lift control lever up and down. Pic attached. I am new to mechanical work and really want to learn. (7) Place the position control lever in the forward position. Never force anything! It can be done, but I think that qualifies as abuse. }. Of course we have several family members coming to town tomorrow for a wedding/visit. Thanks for the suggestion. I'm a little confused on the weld issue. Maybe not true. If that link is bent, it needs to be straightened in a vise or press. Finally, I think I'll just get one of your jigs. Figured that out after I sent the last message. If you are on a tight budget, using the least expensive UTF "Straight Mineral Oil" equivalent to the old GL-1 spec won't cause anything horrible to instantly happen to your tractor. Learn how your comment data is processed. There's a good reason to talk about the weather, it affects everything. "image": { Mar 12, 2013. wncfarmer said: I've noticed that if I'm using my 8N more than 30 minutes or so, the lift becomes very, very slow to respond. I'm new to this forum stuff. Control Arm Adjustment (1) Place the hydraulic control unit upside down. Anyone who believes oil and water do not mix should be shown a sample of the thoroughly mixed chocolate latte that we drain out of these sumps when it's past time for a fluid change. It is bent to the front which I would think would help me. "@type": "Person", Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V. window.dataLayer = window.dataLayer || []; function gtag(){dataLayer.push(arguments);} gtag('js', new Date()); gtag('config', 'G-04SJ2KTSCK',{ cookie_flags: 'max-age=7200;secure;samesite=none' }); Welcome! That left only a small amount to drain from the two big plugs. Turn off the engine and remove the right side access cover (the one with the dipstick) and slide your hand down along the control rod into the oil and feel the end of the rod where it goes into the control valve pivot. No warm-up needed on cold winter mornings to get the lift to work. Water is heavier than oil, so this condensation runs down and collects at the bottom of your sump (where the pump is located). Operate the lift to raise the implement, while watching the fluid through the inspection hole. Wear them enough and you forget you have them on. How did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism? Crack a drain plug and turn it out about half a turn. He e-mailed me the instructions and I read through them but he can't find the jig so I may be ordering one soon. "datePublished": "2015-06-09", If my brother-in-law has any luck with that I'll use your suggestion on cutting the arm ram off. Required fields are marked *. However my problem on my 51 8n is the lift arms go all the way up and wont go down unless I let it set for several days. That adjustment would work on a lift that was prestine but it ain't! It is bent forward which I thought would help if anything, wrong? Then, wet some rags & stuff them in the cover to catch the shavings when you grind it back down. Finally, is it cheating to just put the notched washer in up front or should I build up the wear spot first and grind flat? Just give them a ring to get started. The crack has nothing to do with the lift performance at this time. If someone has substituted bolts where there should be pins, replace them with the correct hardware. First of all, this the 3rd 8N I've owned since '96. There has got to be a better way. FORD 9N 2N 8N NAA 600 601 800 TRACTOR LIFT CONTROL LEVER 9N512A . Epoxy? 2023 Ford Fordson Collectors Association All Rights Reserved. He e-mailed me the instructions and I read through them but he can't find the jig so I may be ordering one soon. Remove the PTO shaft. Took the yoke off the draft sensing spring. Any suggestions? }, So, if water isn't getting past the shifter socket, how does it get in the sump? Of course we would recommend welding / brazing it or taking some where while it is apart . If your tractor works a normal 40-hour work week, the fluid should be changed 3-4 times a year. Small leaks tend to get bigger, but you should be able to judge if your leaks are bad enough to have to remove the top cover and fix them. BE CAREFUL! Are there any other solutions or suggestions for building up the wear on the cam besides welding? Welding is on the long list of things I know nothing about. Dean Here is the pic. "publisher": { Reassemble the linkage and adjust as per the shop manual instructions. My pic is attached. This is accomplished by tightening or loosening the nut on the end of the hydraulic touch control lever shaft (fig. Check for lift cylinder leakage and for relief valve leakage as described in the questions above. How did you adjust the draft and position control mechanism? Thus, I removed the hydraulic control unit to adjust it Welcome! Maybe not true. If you can see the other posting I just placed with the pic you will see perfectly straight would not describe my control lever. Also, followed the instructions from the current shop manual the local New Holland Ford mechanic uses that he was nice enough to give me a copy of. The fluid level in the transmission/hydraulic sump is way less than half full. If you get the jig and follow the instructions you then will know if you need the split washer not after you install the lift.. Not sure if you saw the pic of the crack in my lift arm ram. It may not display this or other websites correctly. Leakdown is probably the most common complaint with the N tractors, but its usually easy to fix. Make sure the oil level isnt low. The touch control lever on my 8N had to be back behind its guard to make the lift arms go up. Look for places where the gaskets may have blown out. There are four bolts around the PTO bearing flange. Get to the tough questions and you go all shy on me? Do you see that as well or just my original post and your responses? An overhead hoist is a great help. Make sure the rod is connected and that it is moving the control valve spools in and out as you move the lift control lever up and down. John Thanks for the suggestion. All you need is a wing-nut, a 3/4-inch nylon bushing, and a screw. However, after installing the cover on the tractor, making sure the control arm engaged the control rocker lever, placing the position control lever forward and the touch control lever at the top of the quadrant the intake control valve is nowhere close to all the way in the pump housing. Should the cam be smooth across its width? I cant seem to find if this is one solid tube? Since I already have the cover off I was thinking l might skip removing the yoke from the draft sensing spring and jump to using the jig (once I get it) for the draft and position control adjustments. It is bent forward which I thought would help if anything, wrong? I used to start with the small pipe plug at the back. "@type": "ImageObject", These tractors probably got more of a workout their first ten years of life than we will give them the rest of our lives . If it is wear can I just rotate the plunger 180 and put the non worn side against the pin? The crack has nothing to do with the lift performance at this time. ";s:7:"keyword";s:47:"ford 8n hydraulic lift control lever adjustment";s:5:"links";s:851:"Long Term Finance Sources,
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